The memory of the clasp: A timeless microcosm
The Memory of the Purse: A Timeless Microcosm
—A story of fabric and memories woven by WABISUKE's original textiles—
Prologue: What resides in the clasp purse
Just hearing the name "Gamaguchi" (clasp purse) brings back fond memories for many people. The sound of the small metal clasp snapping. The feel of the fabric.
It is a "microcosm" woven from fabric and metal, a vessel that gently encases a part of the user's life.
Chapter 1: The origins of clasps and life in the Edo period
The prototype of the tomahawk is said to have appeared in the late Edo period. At the time, common people used drawstring pouches or bags to carry coins, but metal clasps were introduced to make them easier to open and close and to improve security.
One theory is that the name "gamaguchi" comes from the fact that the shape of the clasp resembled the mouth of a toad. Edo craftsmen were particular about the decoration of the clasp, and combined techniques such as engraving, lacquering, and dyeing. Gamaguchi purses made with Yuzen dyeing and gold brocade in particular attracted attention as gifts and wedding accessories.
The wallet is not just a practical item, but exists as a part of daily life and culture. It is a wallet, but also a tool that conveys the owner's aesthetic sense, thoughts, and seasonal feelings.
Chapter 2: Meiji, Taisho, and Showa Periods: Changes in Clasp Purses and Aesthetic Sense
Meiji Period: Fusion with Western Technology
After the Meiji Restoration, Western culture began to flow in, and clasp purses also underwent changes. European coin purses were introduced to Japan, and the structure of the clasp was improved. Clasps made of brass and nickel became popular, improving durability and the ease of mass production.
During this period, uchiwa also symbolized the blending of Japanese and Western styles. With Japanese patterns and Western lace, the fusion of different cultures was expressed in the fabric, making it an item that accentuated the individuality of its owner.
Taisho Romanticism and Decorative Beauty
During the Taisho period, designs influenced by Art Deco and Art Nouveau appeared, and clasp purses became popular among modern girls, establishing themselves as a fashion item.
Around this time, clasps began to function not only as storage devices but also as accessories. Colors and designs were required to have a narrative quality, and they began to have a presence as "little stages" that reflected the sensibilities of their owners.
Showa Period: Popularization and Mass Production
In the early Showa period, advances in industrialization made it possible to mass-produce clasps, and they became popular nationwide. During the period of rapid economic growth, plastic clasps and synthetic leather appeared, making them more affordable.
During this period, clasp pouches were valued for their practicality, and the retro colors and patterns of the Showa era fostered a unique aesthetic sense. Many designs, such as red polka dots, goldfish patterns, and floral patterns, combine nostalgia with ease of use.
Chapter 3: From Heisei to Reiwa: Reevaluation and Culturalization of the Clam Purse
Since the Heisei era, clasp purses have been rediscovered as a nostalgic yet new item. In particular, in the handmade market, one-of-a-kind clasp purses made by individual artists have become popular and are now sold on e-commerce platforms such as Creema and minne.
The selection of fabric, the shape of the clasp, and the sewing technique all reflect the artist's individuality, giving the purse value as a "work of art." Making purses has also become popular in workshops and craft classes, and it has become established as a craft experience that parents and children can enjoy together.
They have also collaborated with anime and manga for a long time, and before you know it, mouths have become popular among young people using character motifs. The fusion of tradition and pop culture has made mouths a hot topic on social media, with many products selling out immediately.
Gamaguchi purses are once again attracting attention as a "cultural vessel" loved by people of all generations.
Chapter 4: The technical structure of clasps and the handiwork of artisans
The appeal of a gaguma lies in its structure. The metal clasp and fabric make it easy to open and close while also providing sufficient shielding. Clasps come in round, square, and irregular shapes, and can be selected depending on the purpose.
The production process is as follows:
1. Fabric cutting (surface and lining)
2. Sewing (sew together into a bag)
3. Next step: attaching the nozzle (+ crimping)
4. Finishing (thread processing and sewing)
This process is largely done by skilled craftsmen, and attaching the nozzle in particular requires delicate techniques.
The clasp purse can be said to be the "crystallization of craftsmanship" that combines technique and sensibility.
Chapter 5: Purses and Colors—Season and Emotions in Fabrics
The appeal of a purse cannot be fully explained by its design and structure alone. The color and pattern of the fabric are what define the "opening" of the purse.
Cherry blossom and light green colors look great with spring purses. The soft pink fabric is embroidered with petals that fall spontaneously. The goldfish and morning glory designs are reminiscent of a veranda at dusk. In autumn, the red leaves, persimmon color, and deep crimson shades speak of fruitfulness and loneliness, while in winter, snowflake patterns and plum blossoms add a touch of tranquility and hope.
The names of traditional colors each have their own story. Similarly, "Hatobairo" (pigeon feather color) is the grayish purple of a pigeon's feathers and symbolizes serenity and dignity.
Chapter 6: Memories and stories that reside in purses
A clasp is also a vessel that holds memories. If you inherit a clasp that was used by your grandmother, try to feel the family history through the money, charms, and old photos that were used inside. Many people have had the experience of recalling voices and smells from long ago every time they open the clasp.
Some people may recall the scenery and atmosphere of a place every time they use a purse they bought while traveling. A hand-dyed purse found in a Kyoto townhouse. A retro floral pattern found at a street stall in Asakusa. Each purse carries the memory of that encounter.
Furthermore, by repairing and continuing to use, a purse becomes a "tool that grows with time." Even if the clasp becomes a little loose, or the fabric becomes worn, it is proof of the relationship with the user. This creates a "character" that is not found in new items. A purse is not something to be thrown away, but a "tool that grows." This way of thinking is also permeated with sustainable living and the spirit of cherishing things.
Chapter 7: Wabisuke Purses: A Poem of Fabric and Memory Woven Through Designs
All WABISUKE clasps are designed from original textiles. Rather than selecting a fabric, we create unique designs from scratch, pursuing seasonal sensibilities, narratives, and color harmony. When the fabric is made into a clasp, a one-of-a-kind "poetic craft" is completed.
WABISUKE's production begins not with simply "selecting fabric" but with "designing a story." At the design concept stage, we delve deeply into the meanings of seasonal words and traditional colors, and by fusing them with modern sensibilities, we can instantly create designs that will resonate with the younger generation.
The clasp is selected with consideration for its compatibility with the design, and the finished product is like a "treasure chest containing the poetry of fabric." WABISUKE's clasps continue to tell a story in the hands of the user.
Final Chapter: The Clasp Purse is a Vessel of Fabric and Memories
Gamaguchi purses have become an integral part of people's lives throughout the ages. From the handiwork of Edo artisans to the designs of contemporary artists, their evolution can be seen as a microcosm of Japanese aesthetics and lifestyle culture.
WABISUKE's clasps weave new stories by inheriting tradition while fusing it with modern sensibilities. The seasonal atmosphere is embodied in the fabric. The artisan's skill is embodied in the clasp. By intertwining with the memories of the user, the clasp becomes a "living craft."
It is a small universe woven from fabric, metal, and memory. A poetry that transcends the ordinary quietly lives within this vessel that fits in the palm of your hand.