Hierarchy of Costumes and Colors: Order and Poetry from the Heian Period to the Edo Period
Hierarchy of Costume and Color: Order and Poetry from the Heian Period to the Edo Period
WABISUKE Editorial Department | From the series Weaving Seasons and Memories
"The color is fragrant but fades away"
The aesthetics of color, layered on the transience of cherry blossoms, has transformed over the ages, from the court costumes of the Heian period to the townspeople culture of the Edo period, while continuing to depict the boundaries of class and sensibility.
Heian period: Colors were the language of social status and the poetry of the seasons
The costumes of the Heian aristocracy, represented by the Junihitoe, were based on the "Kasane no Irome" (layered colors), which conveyed a sense of the season and one's status through layering of colors.
• Color hierarchy: Purple symbolizes the highest rank, blue and green are middle rank, yellow and red are lower rank, and there are also colors that are forbidden and restricted for use by common people.
• Linking with the seasons: Reflecting the changing nature in costumes such as "umegasane" (plum blossoms) and "sakuragasane" (cherry blossoms) demonstrates sensitivity and culture.
• Color as a poetic symbol: Color is not merely decorative, but a cultural symbol linked to waka poetry and stories. In The Tale of Genji, color suggests the character and destiny of the characters.
Kamakura to Muromachi: The rise of the samurai and a shift to practicality
During the samurai era, costumes became simpler and colors became more subdued.
• Emphasis on practicality: Hitatare and kosode became mainstream, and ease of movement was prioritized.
• Changes in color symbolism: Black and navy blue became colors that represented the dignity of samurai. Red was also used as a symbol of courage on the battlefield.
• Reorganization of hierarchy: The meanings of colors diverged between the nobility and the samurai, and the same color came to have different hierarchies depending on the context.
Edo Period: The Rise of Townspeople Culture and the Liberation of Color
During the Edo period, common people began to freely enjoy costumes and colors, and the hierarchy became more complex and playful.
• Aesthetics of chic and style: Subtle color names, such as "Shijuu Hatcha Hyakunezu" (Forty-eight Teas, One Hundred Mice), were born, and the aesthetic sense of townspeople became more refined.
• The metaphorical nature of color: While flashy colors were banned, the culture of "uramasari," which involved hiding bright colors in linings and accessories, developed.
• Class reversal: There was also a phenomenon in which commoner stars, such as kabuki actors and ukiyo-e artists, led color trends and influenced the costumes of the upper class.
Wearing the memory of color
The colors in costumes were not simply a sign of beauty, but also a mirror that reflected the order, sensibility, and playfulness of the times.
Purple in the Heian period, grey in the Edo period - each speaks not only of social status, but also of a sense of the seasons and an intellect that plays with beauty.
At WABISUKE, we aim to pass on timeless sensibilities by weaving these memories of color into modern fabrics and words.
Next time, we will delve deeper into "Forbidden Colors and the Reverse Aesthetics of the Common People."