[Chirimen and the Japanese] Memories dwelling in fabric and the aesthetics of daily life
Chirimen and the Japanese: Memories in Fabric and the Aesthetics of Life
Chapter 1: What is Chirimen? The techniques and sensibility behind the texture of the fabric
Chirimen—what comes to mind when you hear the word? Perhaps it's the soft texture of a kimono, the delicate feel of Japanese accessories, or even memories of old fabrics stored in your grandmother's dresser.
Chirimen is a weaving technique in which tightly twisted weft threads are woven and then scouring is performed to shrink the threads, creating a fine unevenness (shibo) on the surface of the fabric. This unique shibo reflects light softly, giving the fabric depth and expression. Not only is it beautiful to look at, but the appeal of chirimen is its supple feel and the depth of the dyeing.
Chapter 2: The Winds of Tango - The Origin of Chirimen and Its Incorporation into Japanese Culture
The origins of crepe go back to the Kyoho era (1720s) of the Edo period in the Tango region of northern Kyoto Prefecture. Tango artisans who had learned the techniques of Nishijin weaving added their own unique touches and created crepe as a fabric that brings out the beauty of silk to the fullest.
Tango crepe eventually spread throughout the country as a kimono fabric due to its compatibility with Yuzen dyeing, and became a pillar of Japanese clothing culture. Even today, it is said that about 60 to 70 percent of Japan's kimono fabric is produced in Tango, and crepe can truly be called "the fabric of the Japanese people."
Chapter 3: The aesthetic sense embodied in fabrics: Chirimen and Japanese life
The Japanese have always treated fabric not simply as a material, but as something to "wear the seasons" and "envelop the heart." The soft texture of crepe, combined with dyes that reflect the changing seasons, brings a poetic feeling to everyday life.
For example, in spring, there is cherry blossom-colored crepe, and in autumn, there is a crepe obi dyed with autumn leaves. Fabric connects nature and people's hearts, and crepe is a delicate storyteller. The aesthetic of "space" and "white space" that resides in fabric can be said to be the very essence of Japanese sensibility.
Chapter 4: The evolution of materials - polyester crepe is a modern choice
In modern times, polyester crepe has widely replaced silk. Although it is a synthetic fiber, it reproduces the traditional texture and is convenient in that it is water-resistant, stain-resistant, and machine-washable.
Polyester crepe is ideal for everyday Japanese goods, accessories, and small items, and serves as a bridge between traditional designs and modern life. WABISUKE uses this material for its arabesque-patterned clasps, embodying the philosophy of being "poetic yet practical."
Chapter 5: Arabesque and Chirimen: A Dialogue Between Design and Material
Among Japanese patterns, the arabesque pattern has been particularly popular as a design symbolizing vitality and prosperity. Its spiraling vine shape suggests the growth of plants and family ties, and it has been widely used on wrapping cloths, tool bags, and clasp purses.
Arabesque patterns dyed on canvas are powerful and give off a folk-art impression. On the other hand, arabesque patterns dyed on polyester crepe have a delicate and elegant look, giving off a modern, light feel. The size of the patterns also differs, with canvas tending to be larger and crepe smaller. This is also due to differences in aesthetic sense depending on the characteristics and use of the material.
Chapter 6: The Future of Chirimen: A Fusion of Tradition and Innovation
Chirimen is not simply an "old fabric." Rather, it continues to evolve as a crystallization of technology and sensibility. The emergence of polyester chirimen is an innovation that allows traditional designs to be shared with more people, and can also be seen as the democratization of fabric.
WABISUKE uses canvas as the base material, but uses polyester crepe only for the arabesque pattern, creating a dialogue between material and design. This is an approach to fabric production that not only preserves tradition, but also fits in with modern life.
Summary: Chirimen is fabric, poetry, and memory
Chirimen is more than just a woven fabric. It is woven with the wisdom of Japanese handicrafts, a sense of seasonality, and an aesthetic sense that is close to everyday life. The techniques nurtured by the climate of Tango have been passed down through the ages and are now alive in the new material polyester.
The reason WABISUKE chose polyester crepe for its arabesque-patterned clasp is not simply for its functionality. It embodies the philosophy of being "poetic yet practical" and "innovating while preserving tradition." The strength of canvas and the delicacy of crepe—the dialogue between the two adds depth to WABISUKE's fabric creations.
Fabric tells a story, patterns evoke memories, and materials are part of daily life. And crepe quietly embraces all of this.
When we touch this fabric, we are reminded of our sensibilities as Japanese people. The sense of seasons, the thoughtfulness that goes into gift-giving, and the culture of cherishing the stories that reside in fabric. Chirimen is a bridge that connects the past and the present, and also a path that leads to the future.
WABISUKE will continue to weave the memories of fabric, transcending the ages and taking root in our lives, like the twisting vines of arabesque patterns.