Forbidden Colors and the Reverse Aesthetics of the Common People
Forbidden Colors and the Reverse Aesthetics of the Common People
WABISUKE Editorial Department | Series on Color and Order, Chapter 2
"Why is it that certain colors look more beautiful?"
The townspeople of Edo took advantage of the constitutional restrictions and developed a playful use of color.
What are forbidden colors? The symbol of forgetfulness that resides in color
A forbidden color is a color that was forbidden to be used by anyone other than certain authorized people. In the Heian period, this was purple, and in the Edo period, this was gold, crimson, and deep purple.
• Purple: A color only permitted for the Emperor and high-ranking nobles. A symbol of spirituality and acceptance.
• Gold and red: These colors symbolize luxury and are restricted for use by common people.
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The Reverse Aesthetics of the Edo Commoners: "Iki" Resides in Restraint
It was precisely because of these restrictions that common people were able to be creative with color. The Edo style evolved from the "aesthetics of not showing colors" to the sublimation of forbidden colors.
• Uramasari: The outside is grayish-gray, with red or gold lining. The beauty lies in the parts that cannot be seen.
• Shijuu Hatcha Hyaku Nezu (48 Browns, 100 Mice): A name for the subdued brown and mouse colors was born, competing for individuality within the subdued look.
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Forbidden colors are not "rejected beauty" but "permitted beauty"
While common people avoided forbidden colors, they continued to admire and observe them.
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• Kabuki actor's costume: A commoner star boldly uses forbidden colors, symbolizing reversal.
• The colors of ukiyo-e: Publishers and teachers skillfully used forbidden colors to visualize the aspirations of the common people.
• Playing with fabrics and words: There is also a culture of having fun with forbidden colors by giving them alternative names, "behind the words."
The poetry of reversal that resides in Wabisuke fabric
it is,
It was a creative space for ordinary people to weave "invisible beauty" and "hidden pride."
At WABISUKE, we aim to weave reverse aesthetics into modern fabrics and words, and pass on a timeless sensibility.
Next time, we will explore the relationship between color and words with the theme "Poetics of Color Names: A Hundred Stories in Gray."